Improving the handbrake on Jag series 1/2 based cars

[CobraPaul]

Good tip to know, thanks for sharing!
The good news is that my Dax already has them fitted so that's hopefully not something i need to worry about

[Chris]

Your improvements can't be a bad thing, I also have the same brake set up on my S R, although not
with vented rear discs or the access pannel .
This may be a time to update with at least an access pannel as my build was thirty plus years ago and have aged likewise .
As for the operation of the handbrake it has always performed as it should and an mot chap that I used to use
even summoned his colleagues due to the fact he reckoned he didn't often see a Jag handbrake actually work
correctly !
If you have a good smooth run on the cable and the mechs are in good shape you should be good to go .
Let me know how you do with your update, the info is is always good to have .

Chris.

[Nbracken]

More photos

[Nbracken]

More photos

[Nbracken]

Hi I've owned my Python now for over 30 years and during that time the handbrake has never been great.  And I know I'm not alone.
On a recent visit to Rob Whitwell's workshop he showed me a Python chassis that is still in (re)build in his workshop and I noted two springs on the handbrake assembly  that I was sure were absent on my car.  (Rob was one of the three founding partners of Unique back in the early 80's). He explained that they were an essential part of the handbrake mechanism that ensure the self adjusting ratchets work effectively.  So as soon as I returned home, I checked my car and confirmed that they were absent..
I ordered a pair from Moss Europe (Part number C22690) and on a sunny afternoon here in Germany today I got round to fitting them.
The attached photos (below and in the following post) I think are illustrative but in sequence the work went something like this:
1. Remove the (larger than standard) rear access panel.  The larger aperture was created some 20 years ago when I updated the rear discs to a ventilated type to eliminate the tendency to overheat on track days and helps servicing immensely. 
2. On the inside of each chassis leg about 20 cm from the handbrake lever arm on each caliper, drill a 5 mm hole and thread with an M6 tap.  I had to use a flexible drill extension cable for this job as there is no way you get a drill in place at the requisite perpendicular angle to the chassis leg.  Getting the tap done was just slow and fiddly but possible.
3. With a spring washer and a dab of Locktite I mounted a small ,L' shaped stainless steel bracket to each chassis leg that was prefilled with 6mm on one leg of the ,L' and 3mm on the other leg, with an M6 hex head screw.
4. Installed the spring.
So job done?  Well no not quite.  Unsurprisingly after 20 years of inaction, the self adjusting ratchets that my new springs would like to help do their job are not working because they are most likely full of crud.  So my next task will be remove both calipers, show them some love and a good clean, and then hopefully I will have a handbrake working effectively just as Jaguar intended.