Waterless Coolant

[chris27_blue]

Apparently, so I was advised yesterday, the coolant in my DAX is waterless. Its BLACK.

Header tank is a bit low- so do i fillup with waterless, or do as Chief engineer said, and flush it all out and replace with  standard coolant?

Events have overtaken the decision. Cobra decided to spit out most of the coolant all over my new garage floor. Least I was at home reversing up the drive and into the garage when it happened

Off for repairs and putting normal H2o in it. with a dash antifreeze. Checking the waterpump too, and thermostat, and temperature gauge as it didnt indicate an issue

[427mark]

Maybe worth checking the timing also

[427mark]

I have a Ford 302 stroke out to 347 in a GT40 that sat outside Le Mans classic ticking over waiting to get in last year for 2 hours ,Never over heated once with normal coolant. I think if the system is good enough, you should be okay if there is any other problems with overheating it may be worth looking at the system rather than a bandage my two cents worth , my Cobra was the same with a 400 Chevy in it. The last thing that you need is overheating anxiety when you are out on a trip trust me it's not nice

[chris27_blue]

Apparently, so I was advised yesterday, the coolant in my DAX is waterless. Its BLACK.

Header tank is a bit low- so do i fillup with waterless, or do as Chief engineer said, and flush it all out and replace with  standard coolant?

[Chris]

I have developed a slight leak on my system so i thought about replacing with waterless coolan.
Having read the other posts, not so sure now.
I have previously put about 50/50 water/antifreeze to help with the cold as well as rust reduction.
Has anybody ever added the stuff you put into central heating systems to inhibit rust ?
Years ago draining a ratiator would come out black or rust coloured, these days looks like very weak beer, but vert clean ??
Ian

50/50 mix is what we used for all of our dyno test beds, don't be tempted to use anything stronger,
if anything you could drop down to 40 percent antifreeze and will actually improve cooling in summer or
winter .
With fourty percent it is very unlikely to freeze solid in the UK.
The other thing it is well worth using a good quality version, just be carefull what you buy .
Bluecol use to be among the best and was good for more than two years but most products only seem to
be good for two years max this day and age .
Someone may be able to respond with a product that is good for more than two years ?
Chris.

[gd427man]

I have developed a slight leak on my system so i thought about replacing with waterless coolan.
Having read the other posts, not so sure now.
I have previously put about 50/50 water/antifreeze to help with the cold as well as rust reduction.
Has anybody ever added the stuff you put into central heating systems to inhibit rust ?
Years ago draining a ratiator would come out black or rust coloured, these days looks like very weak beer, but vert clean ??
Ian

[philip.e]

You need to carry a secondary reserve of the waterless coolant in case of a leak or loss when out and about.

With water systems if you suffer a loss the you can just top up with water until a satisfactory repair can be made, but waterless can only be topped off with more waterless, and with the cost factored in also becomes a tad silly IMO.

This reminds me of our trip to the lake district for our honeymoon in my rather rotten but well loved TR6 in 1982. We had nearly arrived when suddenly steam started billowing out from under the bonnet. Stopped at the side of Ullswater for a top up. Lasted until we got home.

[Legendary 427]

My engine has cast iron heads and block my only interest in an alternative coolant is reducing corrosion. In the attached photo draining off the radiator after leaving it filled with white vinegar (which dissolves rust) for 24 hours.

Hopefully there may be some useful info for the originator ,
Chris.

I'll let you work that one out

[Chris]

In theory the waterless idea is ok,
but in all the time that I was involved with engine testing and in practice with all of my cars that
I have owned with no issues with just using the correct proportions and the coolant designed for the
the different cooling systems .
Most of my cars have been kept for anything between 10 - 25 years and have only changed the
rads on both of my SD1's and a water pump.
On my 99my Focus that I have reluctantly got rid of, just had normal coolant changes and only thing
that I needed to change was a plastic tube that was slightly weeping .
I would also back up Tommy boys comment that you can always get around topping a normal coolant
cooling system in an emergency by what ever means that come to hand, what ever that may be.
My opinion is, I like to keep things as simple as possible, all I want is a car that works when needed
and not really interested in things like being reminded of the next place to stop for a coffee or a
Mc Donald's !
Hopefully there may be some useful info for the originator ,
Chris.

[Tommy-boy]

You need to carry a secondary reserve of the waterless coolant in case of a leak or loss when out and about.

With water systems if you suffer a loss the you can just top up with water until a satisfactory repair can be made, but waterless can only be topped off with more waterless, and with the cost factored in also becomes a tad silly IMO.

[Legendary 427]

I've got a 1993 302 SBF in my car. Just had my radiator repaired and have been thinking about refilling with waterless coolant.

It's rather expensive!

https://www.evanscoolant.com/

Has anyone used it? Any opinions good or bad?