News:

🌞 Calling All UK Cobra Club Members! 🐍🚗

We've been lucky enough to enjoy some fantastic weather recently, so we're sure many of you have been out making memories in your Cobras! Whether you've been on an epic road trip 🛣�, enjoyed a local car meet 🚘, explored stunning countryside 🌄, tackled an unforgettable adventure 🏁, or even had one of those unexpected breakdowns or mishaps that make for a great story 🔧😅 – we'd love to hear all about it!

Help us fill the UK Cobra Club Website and Magazine with your stories, photos, and experiences. Your adventures inspire fellow members and help make our club community even stronger.

📧 Website submissions: webmaster@ukcobraclub.co.uk
📧 Magazine submissions: magazine@ukcobraclub.co.uk

Don't forget to include plenty of photos! 📸 We can't wait to share your Cobra journeys with the rest of the club.

Happy motoring and enjoy the sunshine! ☀️🐍🏎�

Main Menu

Voltage Stabiliser

Started by Daddio58, Oct 20, 2023, 12:59 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

alunwill

If the gauge part number has a bf suffix, then it's a bimetallic gauge and needs a 10v regulator. From my experience, the plastic versions are 12 volt so no regulator required. The key thing is the bf suffix
Al

RussHowell

Hi,

I have built 4 AK's and only required a voltage stabiliser for the metal cased gauges etc.
I checked with Jon at AK initially and this was confirmed but you could always check again,

Thanks
Russ

Chris

Quote from: Daddio58 on Oct 20, 2023, 03:45 PMThanks for the replies. Mine are Smith gauges but the casings are plastic. Does that mean I don't need one?
As far as I can tell, is that you will need a stabilise for the Smiths classic range, that includes the plastic case
ones .

Chris

There is a section on a site called mini mania.com that may help you with understanding how the Smiths
gauges work in conjunction with both the mechanical and the solid state conversion .
I have never bothered with the solid state type mainly due to myself not experiencing any major issues .
Back in the early days when I worked for Lucas industries we did get customers in with fault gauges &
stabilisers but when working in the real world you tend see most of the problems that crop up, quite a lot of
the issues were caused by the customers messing with things .
You will need to exercise caution with these type gauges to avoid cooking them !
I am presuming the gauges you have are replicas of the original "60's " type ?

Daddio58

Thanks for the replies. Mine are Smith gauges but the casings are plastic. Does that mean I don't need one?

Chris

Quote from: Tommy-boy on Oct 20, 2023, 01:54 PMYou will need to specify what gauges you are using.

Rule of thumb was any smiths gauge with metal casing (fuel gauge) will need the voltage stabiliser. And you should also take note of the mounting orientation for the stabiliser as they should be mounted in a vertical position I believe.
The vertical position is quite correct and no more than three gauges per voltage stabiliser .
That being for temp/fuel gauges, not needed for oil pressure or volt meter .
I have had these type of dinosaur gauges for years now without any issues, I am now touching wood .
Chris.

Tommy-boy

You will need to specify what gauges you are using.

Rule of thumb was any smiths gauge with metal casing (fuel gauge) will need the voltage stabiliser. And you should also take note of the mounting orientation for the stabiliser as they should be mounted in a vertical position I believe.

Daddio58

Hi,
Just wiring up my dash. The wiring diagram shows a voltage stabiliser on it. Is it included in the loom and I've lost it or do you have to buy one and I'm assuming fit it somewhere behind the dash? Or is it needed at all? Thanks for any comments.