starter motors

[Gumball]

Sounds like it may only be suitable for old school starter motors then. 

[Graham Heatrick]

OK Sean. Just that pre-engaged type starters (most modern ones) rely on the sol pulling the gear into mesh with the flywheel before the main contact in the sol is closed. This engages the gear before the starter motor begins to turn, reducing impact wear on the flywheel/starter gears compared with the old style starters with the Bendix type gear (which threw the gear into mesh due to the torque of the starter motor starting). The pre-engaged units therefore need the sol fixed to the starter motor so the sol linkage can 'throw' the gear into mesh with the flywheel which I couldn't see this being possible from a remote position? Hence the remote sol kit would work well with the old style starters but maybe not the more modern units. I think that's correct? So if Barry has the old type starter motor/solenoid set up this should help him.

Graham

[Gumball]

Hi Graham,

Not sure about that. I remember having the problems and went on the internet searching for solutions which led me to the mad electrical website. Think it's a common fix in the states for old school SBCs that have the solenoid piggy backed on the starter.

Sean

[Graham Heatrick]

This sounds great Sean and I'm interested. I'm curious how this will work on a 'pre-engaged' starter/solenoid set up? Sounds like would only work with starters with the torque type engagement gear (Bendix type), is that correct?

Graham

Hi Barry,

Common problem this. I had the same with mine.

Solution is to fit a remote solenoid away from the heat. Fixed mine and never had a problem since in 10+ years.

Have a look at this for more info: http://www.madelectrical.com/catalog/st-1.shtml

You don't need to buy this kit, just a solenoid https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/252977181081?mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&siteid=3&campid=5338080604&customid=2023600%4011%4041&toolid=10001&mkevt=1 and a bit of wiring.

Insulation not needed with this fix.

Sean

[Gumball]

Hi Barry,

Common problem this. I had the same with mine.

Solution is to fit a remote solenoid away from the heat. Fixed mine and never had a problem since in 10+ years.

Have a look at this for more info: http://www.madelectrical.com/catalog/st-1.shtml

You don't need to buy this kit, just a solenoid https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/252977181081?mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&siteid=3&campid=5338080604&customid=2023600%4011%4041&toolid=10001&mkevt=1 and a bit of wiring.

Insulation not needed with this fix.

Sean

[JON1D]

If you have mini starter. Are the headers very close? Some heat wrap or shield will help.
I would also look at your cables and engine earths are good. As these all can be worse when everything gets hot and its a cheap fix if it resolves your problem. The next check is the solenoid. These are usually mounted on the starter motor of mini starters. So if you jumper the connection and the motor turns you know the solenoid has gone bad.
My fix was a cooked starter motor. They do go bad. 

[barry grunnill]

Just clicks, chevy 350 , modern mini starter .seems to be a heat problem not helped by the hot weather.

[JON1D]

Hi,

Few questions.

1. Does it crank over slow ?
2. You say 1 hour then another 10-15 mins. So problem is o.k. after 1 hour 10-15 mins
3. What engine ?

Is the starter an old style heavy slapper .Does it have a remote solenoid ?

I have been here with slow crank and starter issues in the past. They are so frustrating and great when you resolve. 

[barry grunnill]

anybody had problems with not being able to start when the car has been left for say an hour after a run, you have been for a meal come back wont start sit there for 10- 15 mins then it starts. think it is a build of heat because of the location of the starter. It does have a bandage but was thinking of fitting a proper heat shield. Any thoughts.