Latest P-Car update

[Eggbert]

Latest milestone achieved. Transmission is in! Doubt I made guide pins and doubt I could have done it alone without them. My clutch alignment tool worked perfectly as everything slid in nicely although there was a bit of wiggling to keep things moving.

Cheapie alignment tool: https://www.amazon.ca/Mearo-Alignment-Automotive-Replacement-Accessories/dp/B0CS94H3K4/ref=sr_1_5?crid=OUO1Y0HB42OX&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.gg-QrynWkkmIc-izKny9HC5d8Ejc7qUFg_Bq8v_jbob7lTjtPbtp3vEw-g_bd_C20QFyc2CPbMkBy5UPKVjnX0A-aqT-k5KRCsgTqYnCvCPIZpbJg8rFRb0_E69RQaNpoejUJsDynDcaRKJrzi-9_2i-NIInHhEfSm_sk5aXnBWoV4bHaJoAa2wAs-V_1PZufkk5Cxnd2tIqLSYYnOTzSXXxrITZI4TNcUx7SeKLJRryql3gXiaCXi-E4LRzgEu3pJeSNZpzKDNmBnlpRMRS5XL-lc54VYjmB0tpXbCdTbo.lwHCNh5p2hbH5CmZx1DN2vV5_jSzLKcaBWmeqFWkgo4&dib_tag=se&keywords=mearo+clutch+alignment+tool&qid=1747739977&sprefix=%2Caps%2C116&sr=8-5


Finally got enough bolts in that I could put a board across the lift ramps and put a scissor jack on it to support the transmission tail-shaft. That allowed me to remove the hydraulic cart and gave me more room to work.

I still have some bolts to put in, put the mounts in, install the slave cylinder, shift cables, and hook up the reverse light switch. May be more, but I forget right now.

I know from removing the transmission that the two top bolts are more easily accessed through the engine hatch cover.

This was a big step and brings me so much closer to start up.

ps: another tool that worked great even though I had my doubts and thought it might slip: https://www.amazon.ca/ECSiNG-Flywheel-Locking-Compatible-Automobile/dp/B0CJ2DTBNV/ref=sr_1_5?crid=1B06OIM3NT2Z8&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.SsmUWhI2yjwJbNKmCYdHPWkwfgX2Wn4dXinNZ-7vBoPJsRKUNCScVSRVy1gUEVEMJ99cEEbMpiweLfKB9b8ssfDk7Whud028gbZtasAPIgAlrs9XLexlHuJCEa3t6w7pUWzP4V_u3Rlb2fzEra-Z7JjP-6AR-aZIn7UqpJiE8D1X1CAd1DhEfyNWU8cD5e5OJuByYK5v61shssUkFv7narzP9rKPhTl1q7DZg2td2yRb5UJgrbdJShuOxt-ehJhkQTkzdSqbrAlC7asvrZw4mV0stUbEEearbHII0VcgdDQ.fjS6HKRzH48ujO61Pgcu3j8PonxaNcoWbyt_y8ZlbZc&dib_tag=se&keywords=ECSiNG+Car+Flywheel+Timing+Tool&qid=1747740232&s=automotive&sprefix=ecsing+car+flywheel+timing+tool%2Cautomotive%2C93&sr=1-5

[Eggbert]

Those sound like very low temps. How do you deal with humidity: heat your garage, or let stuff rust?

Let stuff rust, but it doesn't seem to very much. Cold air, as in winter air, seems to be less humid than summer. There must be some moisture as I do get some white mold on leather seats, but it easily wipes off with some leather cleaner.

I can get some blistering on chrome parts, especially cheap chrome parts, but it takes years before I need to do something about it.

[KevinW]

As of yesterday (March 30th) my engine is ready to put back in the car. Slow going as I don't try to accomplish much per day, but try to accomplish something most days. 2 weeks with pneumonia didn't help either. Nor did the ice storm which made getting to the garage difficult for a week or so (it's 100 yards away and there was 2" of ice on the driveway).

Will be a little while before I install it as I've got a massive clean-up to do first. Tools to put away. used parts to bag or box up that are worth saving, garbage to get rid of (bags and boxes new parts came in as well as old oily bags from parts stored during disassembly.

Also need to get more floor space as I need my engine crane to lift engine off of stand and put it on the hydraulic table. There's a folding table to clean off and store away and the shipping crate for the engine block I can put parts in it.

I sure hope it runs alright when I finally start it up!

Those sound like very low temps. How do you deal with humidity: heat your garage, or let stuff rust?

[Eggbert]

As of yesterday (March 30th) my engine is ready to put back in the car. Slow going as I don't try to accomplish much per day, but try to accomplish something most days. 2 weeks with pneumonia didn't help either. Nor did the ice storm which made getting to the garage difficult for a week or so (it's 100 yards away and there was 2" of ice on the driveway).

Will be a little while before I install it as I've got a massive clean-up to do first. Tools to put away. used parts to bag or box up that are worth saving, garbage to get rid of (bags and boxes new parts came in as well as old oily bags from parts stored during disassembly.

Also need to get more floor space as I need my engine crane to lift engine off of stand and put it on the hydraulic table. There's a folding table to clean off and store away and the shipping crate for the engine block I can put parts in it.

I sure hope it runs alright when I finally start it up!

[Dek]

T-Y but that wasn't me in the video. More or less went through the same thing though.

It was a nail-biter though. The big issue is if the circlip doesn't get into the groove but drops into the engine. Then the case will have to come apart to retrieve it. I practiced with an old piston on the workbench a lot to improve my chances and that helped and I had no issues.

Lining up the connecting rod and the piston didn't seem to work at first. Despite the alignment tool and the cylinders being oiled, the piston didn't want to move into position despite lots of wiggling. Two extremely gentle taps on the end of the alignment tool brought everything into alignment and I could then remove and install the tool easily by hand.

My biggest worry was about installing the wrist-pin. It's a very tight fit. In fact, just holding the piston in one hand and trying to fit a wrist pin almost always lets it get stuck. I tried freezing the wrist-pin, but that made the assembly lube super sticky and that made things worse. In the end, the block access holes kept the tube straight and there was no problem.


The video did make it look fairly easy but I could see the pitfalls. Real life is never as straightforward as the YT videos depict!

[Eggbert]

Nail biting stuff John! You made it look so easy.

T-Y but that wasn't me in the video. More or less went through the same thing though.

It was a nail-biter though. The big issue is if the circlip doesn't get into the groove but drops into the engine. Then the case will have to come apart to retrieve it. I practiced with an old piston on the workbench a lot to improve my chances and that helped and I had no issues.

Lining up the connecting rod and the piston didn't seem to work at first. Despite the alignment tool and the cylinders being oiled, the piston didn't want to move into position despite lots of wiggling. Two extremely gentle taps on the end of the alignment tool brought everything into alignment and I could then remove and install the tool easily by hand.

My biggest worry was about installing the wrist-pin. It's a very tight fit. In fact, just holding the piston in one hand and trying to fit a wrist pin almost always lets it get stuck. I tried freezing the wrist-pin, but that made the assembly lube super sticky and that made things worse. In the end, the block access holes kept the tube straight and there was no problem.

[Dek]

Here's a brief partial video of the process (from 220 seconds to 365 seconds).

https://www.youtube.com/embed/zX5W1Xlj2PI?start=220&end=365

Nail biting stuff John! You made it look so easy.

[Eggbert]

Here's a brief partial video of the process (from 220 seconds to 365 seconds).

https://www.youtube.com/embed/zX5W1Xlj2PI?start=220&end=365

[Eggbert]

The short block is now together. The block has been replated with Nikasil and new pistons and rings are in. New bearings and various other new parts.

What a nightmare installing cylinders 4 through 6 wrist pins and circlips... all through a hole in the block. Very intimidating, but in the end, it went really well.

Ordered a new water pump even though my old one looked and felt fine. Apparently they have a reputation of frequent failure, are difficult to replace with the engine in the car plus I got a very good price.

Next steps are installation of the cylinder heads and then camshaft timing.

Here's a pic taken in my messy garage: