News:

The Webmaster is dead, long live the Webmistress!
As you may or may not know, Tony will be leaving the webmaster post and Cath will be taking over. Good luck Cath!

Main Menu

Engine trouble

Started by Safertspice, Sep 11, 2023, 07:17 AM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Safertspice

Hi,

By way of an update,  I fitted a pressure regulator and the bypass to the fuel pump,  sadly to no avail.  I decided to take the plunge and rebuild the carb,  bought an ultrasonic cleaner and set to work.

Once refitted to the car hey presto!  engine back to original self and starting every time on restart,  and ticking over very nicely.

Thanks for all your advice

Chris

Quote from: JON1D on Sep 13, 2023, 12:08 PMI think the reported problems of the glass filters were if they are not secured properly. They then can vibrate against metal and crack. When you screw them together make sure you have no fuel leaks at the ends. 

Just securely mount it with two p-clip on hose entry and exit then tie-wrap or bolt to stop any movement. You then have a good indicator of the fuel just before your carb.
Was happy with the location near the carb and how it was fitted but my thoughts there may have been a
design fault .
I never had any dangerous leaks when it was fitted, so my thinking is I will refit another at some point as they
look good and give a visual check .
The filters needed to be cleaned on a regular basis but that was proberbly due to the fact there was no
fuel filter between tank and fuel pump.
Thanks for the input.
Chris.

Simon

Check fuel pressure...

Waitey

Or just go Fuel Injection....  ;D
''Looks like a guy in a hurry with a bulging wallet.''

JON1D

I think the reported problems of the glass filters were if they are not secured properly. They then can vibrate against metal and crack. When you screw them together make sure you have no fuel leaks at the ends. 

Just securely mount it with two p-clip on hose entry and exit then tie-wrap or bolt to stop any movement. You then have a good indicator of the fuel just before your carb.
Dax 351c T5 2.88 1996 -
Crendon 452c TKO600 -2022-

Chris

Quote from: KevinW on Sep 12, 2023, 10:23 PMGood point about filters.
After the first 1k miles on my car I was surprised to see the 'flotsam' that had been sucked out of the tank and caught in the filter.

I have a glass one in the boot that I can see the state of the filter (secured to avoid accidental damage) and a plastic ne just before the carb.
I've always used a filter in the boot near the pump that is changed ever so often .
I did also have one of those nice chrome & glass ones mounted in the engine bay but removed it for no
other reason than some bad reports of fire risk !
This may have have been caused due too poor fitment, I don't know but would like to refit another if there that
original risk has passed with later types ?
It is nice to see what is running through to the carb as well as seeing what is on the pressure gauge.
Chris.

KevinW

Good point about filters.
After the first 1k miles on my car I was surprised to see the 'flotsam' that had been sucked out of the tank and caught in the filter.

I have a glass one in the boot that I can see the state of the filter (secured to avoid accidental damage) and a plastic ne just before the carb.
Crendon 427 S/C    Ford FE428 & Toploader

Graham Heatrick

When I fitted a new Carter to my 350 SBC (Edelbrock) with no pressure regulator (old pump only delivered 6psi tops) the pressure regularly hit 8psi resulting in the carb float valves not shutting off. This eventually overfuelled the hot engine and stopped it but on restart attempts the carb was literally filled with fuel (float valves unable to close due to high pressure) and I was lucky not to have a fire!
Installed a regulator and set to 5-6 psi, no probs since. Recommend a filter between the tank and the pump, plus another as close to the carb as possible.
Hope you get it sorted 🤞

Quote from: Safertspice on Sep 12, 2023, 09:07 AMHi,

The pump is a Carter, currently there is no pressure regulator, I have ordered an inline pressure gauge, and a bypass check valve as the the pump instructions suggest one is fitted (didn't have one before and was running a carter)but for the sake of a few £ would be silly not to (at least then I know the pump is fitted inline with OEM guidance.

Once this is installed I will try again, hopefully it will arrive in time for the weekend, then at least I can check all of the things you guys have suggested at the same time

Thank you all for your help,

Regards
Garry
Club Committee Member | National Events Coordinator | 2005 Dax Cobra 350 SBC

Safertspice

Hi,

The pump is a Carter, currently there is no pressure regulator, I have ordered an inline pressure gauge, and a bypass check valve as the the pump instructions suggest one is fitted (didn't have one before and was running a carter)but for the sake of a few £ would be silly not to (at least then I know the pump is fitted inline with OEM guidance.

Once this is installed I will try again, hopefully it will arrive in time for the weekend, then at least I can check all of the things you guys have suggested at the same time

Thank you all for your help,

Regards
Garry

JON1D

What is the new fuel pump make?
You should have about 5-6 psi for a Holley no more. If you have a regulator in line. Some have them built in.
Holley carbs don't like pressure and squirt out the top of the venture . Whip the air filter and you will see fuel coming out the top is a prime example of over fuelling.
I would also check float levels as well while your at it.   
Dax 351c T5 2.88 1996 -
Crendon 452c TKO600 -2022-

Safertspice

Hi,

From what could see,  smoke was pretty dark, 

I have just ordered an inline fuel pressure gauge, new fuel filters etc,  going to clean out the fuel lines etc and also just noticed, the electric pump is supposed to have a check valve fitted across in and out so ordered one of those too.

ChrisP

Don't under estimate the damage E10 can do, and how quickly. It can mess the float valve seals, I've had it happen. You will then get dripping of fuel through the boosters in your carb after the engine has been running. That riches the engine up and makes it hard to start. It doesn't effect starting from cold as the fuel has evaporated as it stops eventually.
The other issue I had last week in the hot weather was a drip from the squirter. This was caused by a slightly tight adjuster on the accelerator pump. Exactly the same effect as above, start from cold but difficult once used.
I recommend Tetra 15 Ethanol canceler or use Esso Supreme which is currently zero ethanol.
Of course, it might not be the E10, you might just have a float valve seal gone. It happens. Easy fix. Plenty of YouTube vids.
Run the engine, switch off once warm, take the air cleaner off and see if there is petrol dripping in to the carb. If so, it will most likely be the float seal.

Waitey

Quote from: Safertspice on Sep 11, 2023, 04:51 PMHi,

from cold start, initially with choke, it sort of starts as it always used to, once running lot of smoke,  its defiantly not burning oil, which I guess sounds like too much fuel, I think I need to put a pressure gauge inline to check, and see if the new electric fuel pump is delivering too much pressure

Currently off the road because also got problems with the brakes!  this is the trouble when they have been laid up for a few months,  with the brakes, no pedal at all goes straight to the floor!  so engine first then brakes

What colour is the smoke?

Has it just been running at idle a lot in the garage then and not out on the road? If so that would have caused the fouling.
''Looks like a guy in a hurry with a bulging wallet.''

Safertspice

Hi,

from cold start, initially with choke, it sort of starts as it always used to, once running lot of smoke,  its defiantly not burning oil, which I guess sounds like too much fuel, I think I need to put a pressure gauge inline to check, and see if the new electric fuel pump is delivering too much pressure

Currently off the road because also got problems with the brakes!  this is the trouble when they have been laid up for a few months,  with the brakes, no pedal at all goes straight to the floor!  so engine first then brakes

Waitey

Quote from: Safertspice on Sep 11, 2023, 12:46 PMHi,

The engine, turns over fine, the electric fuel pump has has just been changed,

From cold full choke, engine fires first turn, take choke off engine generally starts, but once engine is stopped after a couple of minutes of running, then is a absolute pig to try and get restarted usually followed by strong smell of fuel. if then hold the pedal hard to the floor sometimes it will fire and start, other times, nothing but spinning over.  Since the engine rebuild it has been running perfect until now.

I was wondering owing the the fact E10 petrol had been through it whether it could it have blocked / rotted something in the carb...

It takes a lot of E10 to do anything negative.

Sounds like the plug have been fouled with fuel.

Take one out and have a look, if its black and wet that will be your issue.

How does it run when it fires from cold? Are you able to drive it?
''Looks like a guy in a hurry with a bulging wallet.''