UKCRC Forum

Hi All,

So, I'm embarking on a project - something bigger than I've ever taken on before. An opportunity to acquire a Cobra appeared around Christmas time, although things went a little quite from the seller (turns out he was just busy with other things) but at the end of January, I made a 3hr road trip to go and look at, and ultimately purchase the Cobra I have today.

Brief rundown of history:
- Dax Cobra, mk4 IRS chassis, built and SVA'd in 1999 (although with a Jag v12 engine installed)
- Classic registration plate due to use of enough donor parts at SVA
- Car has been parked up since 2002/2003 when the engine failed
- Brand new crate Roadcraft Chevy v8 purchased and fitted in 2006
- Brand new Tremec TKO500 gearbox, also fitted in 2006.
- Car had no fluids in until 2023, when the engine was torn down, new gaskets etc fitted, fluids added and the car brought up to running/driving again
- The PO also fitted all new fuel and brake lines.
- The PO ran clearly ran out of time to finish restoring the car, so offered it for sale.

I took delivery of the car in early Feb, and since then I've started to have a good look over and determine what needs to be done.

Quite a long list, but a summary of Feb progress:
- Insured and SORNed car
- Purchased a set of wheel dollies to aid moving around (although with my rubber flooring, actually quite difficult)
- Installed p-clips for the rear wiring loom through the interior
- Located a coolant leak, which turned out to be the coolant pump. Replaced like-for-like from RealSteal, added new coolant too
- Run through all documentation and sorted into a decent file
- Got a tilt-lift to get the car in the air
- Stripped the interior, removed the dash, given the car a good initial clean so I can see what I'm dealing with
- Started replacing the sections of fuel hose that were rubber - and the wrong hose type for modern ethanol-based fuel
- Purchased a new fuel filter, and relocated to between tank and pump
- Purchased a load of other parts that need to be fitted when I get the time.
- Moved the horn from a toggle switch on the dashboard to a proper push-horn in the centre of the Moto Lita wheel. (Required 3D printing an indicator-cancelling adapter, and obtaining an old clock-spring to remove the contact plate from the rear.
- Removing a large amount of brightwork as most of it is pitted and needing a full refurb.

I've spent:
- £136.88 on parts that have been fitted
- £192.31 on parts that have not yet been fitted
- £116 on tools
- £230 on insurance


I'm planning on keeping this thread up to date with progress - feel free to comment and provide help where you can :)
My plans are to try, where possible, to focus on getting the car roadworthy again, before some significant upgrades, cosmetic changes and paint/wrap. I have definitely settled on black hardware - powdercoated or ceramic coated in the case of the exhausts. But that's a job for much, much later on.

Photos

Here's a photo as she was loaded up for delivery:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53551991988_5efe1b3dec_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2pAcXuG)

And here she is once she was manoeuvred into my garage:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53552241885_e7a06e170f_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2pAeeMg)

Failed Waterpump:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53551992438_8dbcb50b9e_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2pAcXCs)

Replacement pump:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53552133179_c2ca10126e_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2pAdFt2)

Dash out:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53551795981_b71364ec23_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2pAbXeg)

Steering wheel before:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53552128529_6c7c468b81_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2pAdE5R)

Steering wheel adapter and clock spring track fitted:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53552237385_df46d56b0e_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2pAedrF)

New Horn fitted:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53551988248_20e5e19b8c_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2pAcWod)

A full spec of the car:

Dax Cobra mk4 IRS chassis
Roadcraft-supplied Chevy v8, 355bhp
Roadcraft-supplied Tremec TKO500 gearbox
Edelbrock 600 cfm carb
Jaguar PL Diff
MK3 VW Golf indicator stalks etc
Moto Lita steering wheel
Stainless fuel tank
ETB instruments
17" Halibrand split rims
Red Gelcoat (to be painted or wrapped, eventually)
Single rollover hoop (to be changed to 1 drivers-side hoop, eventually)

Hi Paul,

Good luck with the rebuild. Just thought I would mention that I have a black dax dash up in the loft collecting dust.
There are some photos in the for sale section. Let me know if it would be of any use to you.

Rgds

Brad

Quote from: Flykilla on Feb 25, 2024, 09:27 PMHi Paul,

Good luck with the rebuild. Just thought I would mention that I have a black dax dash up in the loft collecting dust.
There are some photos in the for sale section. Let me know if it would be of any use to you.

Rgds

Brad

I'll take a look, thanks!

Tonight whilst looking under the car cleaning I found the tag on the diff - 43/14, or 3.07:1 ratio.

Nice project, already registered and with a decent engine/box fitted.

That looks like a fun project Paul.

Enjoy the build/rebuild. It would be great information/knowledge base to keep this thread updated with any progress as you go.

Keep up the good work.

Quote from: Tommy-boy on Feb 26, 2024, 09:27 PMThat looks like a fun project Paul.

Enjoy the build/rebuild. It would be great information/knowledge base to keep this thread updated with any progress as you go.

Keep up the good work.

That's the plan! Figured the information could be useful to other newcomers like myself, but also helps to demonstrate costs of each challenge. I'll update at least monthly :) 

Month 2: March 2024

Things are into full swing now. I've been working on the car most evenings and occasional weekends and the number of jobs to do have snowballed as these projects do.
Writing this all down really makes me appreciate quite how much I've done in the last 4 weeks! It's been challenging but I've made some really good progress.
Unfortunately April won't be as busy as it's Easter and a couple of weeks away means I'll be hankering after getting back into the project when I get home.


Job updates:
- Battery clamp made and fitted (Used one from CBS but needed modification)
- Chrome windscreen surround fully polished and restored, removing all pitting (looks like new)
- Cleaned the windscreen itself. Sounds easy, but had LOADS of tiny, solid lumps on the inside face. Involved using a bare Stanley blade and lubrication to remove
- Removed boot and bonnet handles/locks, to get keys cut. Unfortunately 1 lock is dead, another cannot be picked. So I will be replacing the set.
- Found 2 pinholes in the lower coolant solid pipework. A frustrating issue (esp after I've replaced the water pump and refilled with fresh coolant!) Had to drain again,
remove the pipe and get the holes welded by a local welder.
- Finished replacing the fuel hoses.
- Painted the front brake calipers silver (in situ, but easy to access)
- Started painting the rear calipers silver (in situ, so not the best job but much better than they were!)
- Stripped the dash right down, filled the poorly cut hole in the fibreglass and flush-mounted the headlight control mount
- Ftted a USB charging socket in the glovebox for phone charging. (I'll be using the clock wiring harness to power this, with an extra in-line fuse)
- Fitted 2 Rocker switches to the dash
- Relocated the Fog light warning light to the location of the other warning lights
- Fitted clear front indicator lenses
- Purchased (and started to fit) the Cobra Quick jacks front and rear. (Need to cut down the mounting bars for a better fit
- Cleaned the underside front chassis, treated and painted the unpainted metal
- Cleaned the Power-lok diff and painted black. Removed the diff vent, gave it a good clean out, and reinstalled
- Replaced the rear numberplate light with a Black Wipac LED unit (all hardware will be black on this car when I've finished)
- Removed the rear fog light in preparation for a slim line unit to be fitted
- Removed the fuel level sensor after finding some very inconsistent resistance readings. Identified a lack of proper gasket and ordered a replacement sensor
- Minor soldering jobs to connect the horn to the wiring harness
- Replaced the coolant overflow hose with a red hose to match the other hoses
- Installed brand new windscreen washer hose and jets as existing fitted hose was not adequate
- Fitted several firewall grommets as existing grommets were poorly fitted or too big for the holes
- Installed the side markers - bulb holder was missing but now these should be fully working
- Fitted heater grommets into the spare heater outputs to maximise the redirection of airflow to the windscreens and footwells
- Installed additional earth strap from engine head to chassis to scuttle bar, ensuring a much better earthing in the car (I believe this is critical to good car operation)
- Fitted a proper blanking cap to the carb vac port - again, ensuring proper engine operation without a vac leak)
- Fitted extra heat shielding to the spark plug / HT leads.
- Stripped down the seats, cleaned, painted and regreased the sliders for better seat operation
- Purchased some longer bolts for the seat-to-chassis mounting - none were supplied with the car and this wasn't as straightforward as expected!
- Purchased a load of other misc parts (connectors, crimping tools, extra fuel hose clamps etc)

Total Spent this month:
£413.38 on parts
£36 on tools

Photos

Month 3: April 2024
A mixed month of progress and some disheartening times if I'm honest.
The more I investigate, the more work I identify and more jobs I add to my list. Jobs that you think would be simple turn out to be a nightmare. Several big ticket items ticked off though, so I shouldn't complain.
First off was fitting the fibreglass tunnel. This required considerable modification to get it to sit right and plenty of on-off-on-off fitting to get rivnuts installed, a foam seal to prevent air/water/noise from getting into the cabin. I also added a couple of access hatches to allow for gearbox oil and clutch bleeding to take place without removing of the tunnel.
I also decided to check/replace some of the fluids. First up, the diff oil. Had a nightmare working out how to remove the fill/drain plugs due to the square drive, but found a very useful tip online regarding the use of a 17mm allen head socket back-to-front and a 17mm socket on the other end. Worked a charm and the job was well worth doing as the old oil was clearly >25years old. Checking with Opie Oils and purchased some Castrol Transmax to replace.
Then came the brake fluid. On the Dax at least, the brake and clutch share a reservoir and so I figured I'd get this done as the old fluid was a bit brown... Before I could do this though, I had to relocate the reservoir slightly because the lid was situated underneath the fibreglass body. A rivnut later and we were back in business. Bleeding the clutch was a piece of cake, but for some reason the brakes refuse to give much fluid out, giving only a couple of inches of fluid before seemingly getting a bit stuck. My vacuum pump just created lots of air bubbles (a common issue when it sucks the air through the bleed nipple gaps) so I need to try either a pressure bleed or maybe get the car tilted and use a bit of gravity to assist. A bit of a pain as access to the rear calipers is a bit limited with a spanner.

When I viewed the car originally, the fuel gauge didn't seem to register. Checking the resistance across the sender suggested some bizarre readings so it was removed from the tank and, after testing, replaced with a brand new unit from ETB. The old gasket/sealant was a mess so this was all cleaned off and, whilst the tank was empty, I vacuumed out the small amount of sediment that was visible in the bottom of the tank.

More progress on the Quick Jacks, too. Bars cut to length, position fettled etc. And lots of cleaning of chrome, harnesses and a bit of painting here and there too. 

- Extended some wiring behind the dash which was restricting a tidy wiring job
- Made a reverse switch / light wiring harness
- Weatherproofed the connectors to electronic speedo sensor
- Cleaned and test-fitted the Tonneau cover
- Willians harnesses washed and dried to clean
- Fuel tank sediment removed
- Installed new fuel tank level sender
- Installed front and rear quick jacks - nearly done!
- Installed grommet for choke cable into cabin
- Further modifications to the dash to prepare for covering
- Painted the rear calipers silver
- Checked/topped up gearbox oil
- Cut down the door eschelon bolts
- Repositioned the brake/clutch fluid reservoir to enable cap to be accessed more easily
- Bled the clutch
- Attempted to bleed the brakes
- Changed the Diff oil
- Temporarily fitted the front numberplate
- Fitted harness top mount spacers
- Removed exhaust heatshields & polished exhausts
- Installed the fiberglass tunnel cover front and rear

Total Spent this month:
£199.68 on parts
£57 on tools

Photos

Might be worth checking the fuel gauge sender gasket, to see if its suitable or E10 compatible, as some of the rubber gaskets just wont last with the ethanol mix. Hence I changed over to cork and rubber mix. As the rubber gasket which was used originally used total disintegrated.

Quote from: Mike Hamblin on Apr 28, 2024, 02:26 PMMight be worth checking the fuel gauge sender gasket, to see if its suitable or E10 compatible, as some of the rubber gaskets just wont last with the ethanol mix. Hence I changed over to cork and rubber mix. As the rubber gasket which was used originally used total disintegrated.

I checked with ETB when I ordered and they said it would be ok as long as it's used with a fuel resistant sealant - hence the Hymolar Blue :)

And I doubt I'll be using E10 in this.. E5 mostly.

It does frustrate me that they don't provide a gasket that's compatibility with fuel is questionable though!

Quote from: Mike Hamblin on Apr 28, 2024, 02:26 PMMight be worth checking the fuel gauge sender gasket, to see if its suitable or E10 compatible, as some of the rubber gaskets just wont last with the ethanol mix. Hence I changed over to cork and rubber mix. As the rubber gasket which was used originally used total disintegrated.

You've got me worried now though. Maybe I ignore what ETB told me and just replace it with a cork gasket anyway

Quote from: CobraPaul on Apr 28, 2024, 04:04 PMI checked with ETB when I ordered and they said it would be ok as long as it's used with a fuel resistant sealant - hence the Hymolar Blue :)

And I doubt I'll be using E10 in this.. E5 mostly.

It does frustrate me that they don't provide a gasket that's compatibility with fuel is questionable though!

Just my opinion as time served engineer for the last 40years plus, using sealant like Hylomar on rubber is not a good idea.  And sure isn't best practice.

Quote from: Mike Hamblin on Apr 29, 2024, 11:37 AMJust my opinion as time served engineer for the last 40years plus, using sealant like Hylomar on rubber is not a good idea.  And sure isn't best practice.

I acted solely based on what ETB themselves advised me!

I've now switched to a cork gasket with a small amount of Hymolar blue as per your Facebook post - thanks Mike!

Quote from: Mike Hamblin on Apr 29, 2024, 11:37 AMJust my opinion as time served engineer for the last 40years plus, using sealant like Hylomar on rubber is not a good idea.  And sure isn't best practice.

I have used a smear of  blue Hylomar without any issues on things like water way / inlet manifold gaskets
but not on things to do with fuel tanks etc .
Definatly not used when sub assembling fuel tanks for production, gasket only .

Month 4: May 2024


A random month of slow-progress, with family holidays that left me with less time on the car than I'd like.
I've done so many odds-and-sods on the car this month, but haven't achieved a whole lot if I'm honest, but I've tried to detail the bigger bits below.
There have been some nagging/frustrating jobs and in a lot of cases I'm unlikely to be able to confirm if they've been successful or not until
I get the engine running again. This won't be long, but I want to be sure that everything is in good order before proceeding further.
A few setbacks too - after finally fixing the horn circuit, one of the 2 horn units blew, so I now need to replace this. (And may as well replace both)

Completed:
- Fitted "Glovebox" to the dash via removable brackets
- Installed and wired in new slim fog/reverse light
- Fixed Horn circuit for ground-switched rather than positive-switched to allow for horn to be relocated to the steering wheel
- Investigated and rerouted the carb vacuum-advance configuration (not yet tested)
- Installed seats and harnesses (additional short spacers needed on the seats to allow rails to move properly)
- Installed chrome door sill trim (replaced self-tappers with rivnuts)
- Bled the brakes
- Updated the v5 for the correct engine capacity and engine number
- Replaced corroded chrome rings on rear Lucas lights
- Investigated Intermittent Wiper wiring - relay missing (and now believe I understand the wiring changes needed!)
- Started work on the door strikers which were poorly fitted
- Started work on the demister hose routing from the heater


Total Spend this month:
£87.47

Photos

Months 5-7: June-Aug 2024

So I've been really lazy and not updated this thread for a few months. That doesn't mean things haven't progressed though. I'll keep it brief, and bullet point the updates with some photos of the work. Progress is slower than I'd like, but I don't think there is too much left to do to get her back on the road now, which is a relief.

June:
- Installed new throttle return springs and custom bracket
- Installed the heater/demister hoses
- Installed new throttle cable end
- Fitted a new coolant expansion tank drain hose (to ground, saving a mess in the engine bay)
- Fixed the intermittent wiper circuit, replacing with a VW relay
- Installed rear reflectors for MOT (easily removable)
- Replaced the blown horn
- Installed bonnet gas struts / lifters
Total Spend in June: £168.67


July

- Purchased new wheel nuts
- Installed new wind wings and slightly larger sunvisors (to replace broken items)
- Added door strikers reinforcement panels in wheel arches (as per Dax recommendations)
- Fixed door strikers (drilling and tapping for new threads)
- Installed shorter (more appropriate) stainless bolts on rollbar echelons

Total Spend in July: £298.89


Aug:
- Reattached fuel pump
- Installed new custom gearknob (still need to sort the gaiter)
- Created 3D printed templates for the side vents
- Started the engine for the first time since purchase!
- Removed wheels in preparation for wheel refurb & new tyres

Total Spend in August: £0

There has been a lot of progress on this, but not many posts or updates - so I apologise there!

Anyway, I think today is the first day in about 22 years that this car has been considered "complete" in that every part is fitted to the car.
I'm hoping for a start up next weekend and to check for any running issues before moving the car out of the garage and down the end of the road and back.

Nervous to say the least, but if I can have a small "shakedown" and make sure there's nothing new to be concerned with, and to check all gauges are reading a signal ok, then I can consider it ready to ship to Thunder Road for a checkover and (hopefully) its first MOT since 2003!

Still a long list of jobs to do after that; but mostly cosmetic (ie paintwork, interior trim) that I don't want to consider doing until I know that mechanically and safety are all ok.

I am presuming that you have considered that the engine bores  / camshaft etc etc will be dry if you haven't
already attended to such items ?
Good luck with you start up and mot test .

Chris.

So - She's now legally on the road!

Very much needs a proper run in as we tbink the piston rings need to be coaxed back into sealing properly after a long time sitting. She's had fresh VR1 oil and filter, got a clean bill of health and MOT and is at home ready for a few gentle journeys out whilst the engine breaks in.

I do, however, need to do a few things soon ish. There is no vent on the fuel tank and I need some suggestions for adding something to the filler neck. I've seen a post or two online about this but curious to see what others have done before committing to a solution. One thing is for sure, I don't want fuel shooting out of the filler cap and onto a hot exhaust!

Pics?

Quote from: KevinW on Jul 17, 2025, 08:16 AMPics?

She's not much to look at yet tbh... the cosmetics are yet to be done!

Quote from: CobraPaul on Jul 17, 2025, 10:41 PMShe's not much to look at yet tbh... the cosmetics are yet to be done!

Doesnt matter! the important thing is that YOU are doing it, and creating something, rather than just writing a cheque.

My first Cobra had a grey body and yellow doors and bonnet for years before I got it painted. Funny thing was, I had a lot more interest before it got painted looking like Noddy's car than after, with people stopping for a chat, and asking me if it was a resto project etc.

I am guessing after paint people just assumed I was some posh twat.

Quote from: KevinW on Jul 18, 2025, 10:43 AMI am guessing after paint people just assumed I was some posh twat.

 :-X  ;)  ;D

I'll second the request for pics though, I love looking at photos of other people's work! (Insert something here about that being because I don't do any of my own before Tony says it)

Fair enough then! I think she looks a lot better in the photos than real life and a considerable number of bodywork blemishes and jobs to do. Not entirely sure I'm up to or capable of sorting them but I'll address that later.

Some of these pics show the car from a few weeks ago vs now. The keen eye will spot an entire lack of interior and a gelcoat finish which needs a lot of time spent on it before it can be wrapped.


(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54665281530_1aabc7811c_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2rhzRFY)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/2rhzRFY)

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54664949691_a5e0e26a22_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2rhya3B)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54665278960_a6e71cd0f5_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2rhzQVE)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54664947281_a8a50026ee_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2rhy9k4)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54664947196_55114804ac_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2rhy9iA)

I have a huge to-do list, but at least she is back on the road for the time being.
To Do List, at a high-level:

- New full bucket seats (including guides for harnesses)
- New aero fuel cap
- Single roll hoop behind drivers seat
- Tidy all of the bodywork
- Adjustments to bonnet, boot and doors
- Chin spoiler
- Powdercoat all hardware black
- Cerakote side pipes
- Wrap headers
- Full body wrap
- Full interior carpets etc

...your list can all wait till the winter. Now is the time for driving!

Quote from: KevinW on Jul 21, 2025, 08:40 AM...your list can all wait till the winter. Now is the time for driving!

Mostly, yes - Altho it's not particularly comfortable to drive with these seats in! I'll have to grin and bear it for a while

Sorry I haven't updated this thread in a while. Will update soon, promise! A lot has gone on and I need some time to format my post :)

Quote from: CobraPaul on Jul 21, 2025, 06:37 PMMostly, yes - Altho it's not particularly comfortable to drive with these seats in! I'll have to grin and bear it for a while

Definitely drive it now . Usually October is the last month before we start to see salt going down.

Quote from: JON1D on Oct 09, 2025, 04:17 PMDefinitely drive it now . Usually October is the last month before we start to see salt going down.

She currently can't move as I'm working on the steering column. A delivery has been delayed meaning she's been stuck in the garage for longer than expected!

Ok, so it's been 3 months since my last proper update, and a lot has gone on since then!

Back in July the car went to Thunder Road Speedshop for a full check-over and MOT as I wanted to get a professional check over of the car before driving on the road. The car was with them for a little under 2 months, whilst there were considerable jobs undertaken like a strip down of the carb, engine tuning and a new alternator due to intermittent charging issue with the old one. Tracking down a few leaks and a new sump gasket has helped resolve those, although there is still a small leak from the rear main seal. :( However, a clean MOT and my first proper drive on the road! Unfortunately the engine isn't 100%, but I need to get some miles under the belt for further tuning.

August saw some new LED bulbs for the headlights. Unfortunately the cheap LED units from online had a really poor beam pattern so instead opted for some top quality LED bulbs inside standard units. I also replaced the Aston-style fuel cap for a black flush aero cap and as a result, had to include a breather vent on the fuel filer hose as there isn't one in the aero cap. I much prefer this style of filler and it'll work much better with the final finish I'm going for.
Another cosmetic change was the removal of the large single roll bar for a single 3-legged rollbar behind the driver. I managed to locate a roll hoop second hand (it'll be powder coated black later) and I've made my own brackets to fit. This included a custom section of bent steel for the middle leg and I made my own mount so that the inside leg can be bolted through the fiberglass floor and into a spreader plate underneath. This is very strong now, although isn't structural.

September included the start of some "silentcoat" sound deadening; I've put some in each door and then filled the doors with expanding foam for a more "solid" feel and sound. This has worked very well.
An "oil fooler" has also been fitted in the front; an oil cooler that hasn't been plumbed in. It's unlikely this will need to be functional, but it wouldn't be too difficult to connect up if I needed to. However, this was just a cosmetic addition for the time being.
Being tall and long in the leg, I'm spending a lot of time trying to get the seating position correct. I need to get the seat as far back in the cabin as possible and for those that know the Dax chassis, you'll know how limited the space is for the base of the seat. I'm still working on this and need some replacement seats anyway. In the meantime, I've purchased a Momo steering wheel boss, an NRG quick release hub, and am now pending the purchase of a new steering wheel. This wasn't an expected plan, but given there are no quick-release options for moto-lita wheels or bosses, had to be done. Having a removable wheel will make it MUCH easier for me to get in and out.
I also decided to fit some connectors for the headlight units as this will make it much easier to completely remove the headlight bowls for the inevitable paint job and any maintenance work.

Over these 3 months I've also spent a LOT of hours on the bodywork. I've been filling holes, using wet and dry to get the fiberglass mould ridges removed and she's now nearly ready for a Bodyshop o take it to the next stage. I've put on a temporary sticky front number plate to tidy up the front end until paint/wrap.

I've got a few jobs due to finish soon, including the installation of a firewall bearing for the column (instead of the friction-fit) Sierra item, but delivery has been delayed. I also have some new MSD spark wires that I'm going to route under the headers which should keep them protected from the head better.
I've also not been happy with the look of the rear LED/fog light combo, so I'm replacing these with 2 high-powered LEDs which will be fitted in the same location. I think these will be much more discrete.

So a very busy time so far, but getting closer to the final stages of bodywork and interior!
P.S I also bought a set of second hand quickjack hydraulic car lifts. This makes it MUCH easier to get under the car and do that necessary maintenance!

Looks like things are moving along ok, although progrees has stopped due to parts shortage, not much you can do about that .
With luck you shouldn't have to wait too long to use the beast and the weather looks like it's in our favour for a few more weeks fingers crossed ?
With regards to you headlights/led solution, just be aware that you could fail the test if they don't conform to regs and could even be illegal.
I'm sure that you have looked at the pit falls with this, I'm defiantly not trying to put a damper on your progress .
And by the way your quick jacks have got me thinking again, Costco do a set delivered for thirteen hundred quid !
They do look like a reasonable solution for our Cobra's with just over 1.5 ton limit, no good for most electric cars !
 
Chris.

Quote from: Chris on Oct 12, 2025, 03:34 PMLooks like things are moving along ok, although progrees has stopped due to parts shortage, not much you can do about that .
With luck you shouldn't have to wait too long to use the beast and the weather looks like it's in our favour for a few more weeks fingers crossed ?
With regards to you headlights/led solution, just be aware that you could fail the test if they don't conform to regs and could even be illegal.
I'm sure that you have looked at the pit falls with this, I'm defiantly not trying to put a damper on your progress .
And by the way your quick jacks have got me thinking again, Costco do a set delivered for thirteen hundred quid !
They do look like a reasonable solution for our Cobra's with just over 1.5 ton limit, no good for most electric cars !
 
Chris.

My QuickJacks are the larger but older version - 5000 model not 3500. 3500 is very limiting in terms of length and weight, and these JUST squeeze between the wheels.
Picked my set up for a LOT less than new price second hand. :)

Quote from: CobraPaul on Oct 14, 2025, 11:57 AMMy QuickJacks are the larger but older version - 5000 model not 3500. 3500 is very limiting in terms of length and weight, and these JUST squeeze between the wheels.
Picked my set up for a LOT less than new price second hand. :)

Thanks for the heads up the 5000 model, will presume also a higher lift ?
Will see what comes up in auctions etc .
Chris.

Quote from: Chris on Oct 16, 2025, 08:57 AMThanks for the heads up the 5000 model, will presume also a higher lift ?
Will see what comes up in auctions etc .
Chris.

Presumption incorrect actually. The newer versions lift higher. But are also different dimensions so you need to check.
I spent a long time researching but my model lifts high enough to slide underneath on some wheels so it's good enough for me