Though I would put this out for discussion with regards to the new red top Valvoline VR 1 20w 50 mineral oil .
This is the one that replaces the original version of this oil, would have continued with the old type but like a lot
of things, no longer an option.
Today I have changed the oil and filter then give it a short run just to circulate, seems ok and was wondering
if any other members have had any dealings with this new version?
It seems to have positive write ups but who knows, I would sooner stick with what I know but that's probably
due to my Dinosaur instincts.
Thank in advance for any feed back ,
Chris.
Hi Chris,
Valvoline VR1 Racing oil 20W50
I have looked into the differences and pulled both datasheets. As yourself I am always sceptical on new so called improved or is it cutting corners. It should actually be an improvement over the older version by the tests carried out.
The zinc levels ZDDP( phosphorous now) is the important part. The new version has reduced calcium and removed level of sodium. Add magnesium.
This guy knows his stuff as an oil tech guy. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W48nygk1mlc
I buy it all the time and have a few on the shelf and been using this for last 20 years.
Thanks John
I was told that whatever oil you use, to put in a decent slug of running in additive. Something like this....https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/315658351187?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=ZTFCpXLdSL6&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=91co7LGwQZ-&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
They have a very high ZDDP content which our older engines benefit from.
Quote from: Simon on Mar 20, 2025, 07:01 AMI was told that whatever oil you use, to put in a decent slug of running in additive. Something like this....https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/315658351187?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=ZTFCpXLdSL6&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=91co7LGwQZ-&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
They have a very high ZDDP content which our older engines benefit from.
Hi Simon ,
thanks for your input, all information is useful, I have not used an additive in this case but I'm sure most of the
modern versions would be OK .
What you do need to bare in mind is that if you use an additive to quieten a noisey/ worn engine, the viscosity changes and can actually shut down the filter causing the oil to go the route of the by-pass valve, not going to
kill the engine initially but you only have unfiltered oil .
Just another bit of info, I have used a coolant additive for an annoying water leak around a core plug to good effect so far .
I have never really been a fan of additives and would prefer to address the issue in the correct way .
In the world of even formula 1 racing you would think that everything would be absolutely correct, wouldn't you ?
People would be surprised if they new what goes on !
Apologies for waffling on .
Chris.
Quote from: Simon on Mar 20, 2025, 07:01 AMI was told that whatever oil you use, to put in a decent slug of running in additive. Something like this....https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/315658351187?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=ZTFCpXLdSL6&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=91co7LGwQZ-&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
They have a very high ZDDP content which our older engines benefit from.
The link doesn't seem to work?
I'd also have a look at the simple things first before assuming it's a major issue. On these cars, a loose connection, poor earth, or something that hasn't been tightened properly after previous work can cause all sorts of odd symptoms. Worth checking the basics before replacing parts - it can save a lot of time and money.
Quote from: StellaHong on Jul 05, 2026, 07:39 AMI'd also have a look at the simple things first before assuming it's a major issue. On these cars, a loose connection, poor earth, or something that hasn't been tightened properly after previous work can cause all sorts of odd symptoms. Worth checking the basics before replacing parts - it can save a lot of time and money.
Bot.